Diamond cutting is the art of cutting an irregular stone and evolving it into a precious diamond. The proportions of an ideal cut diamond were proposed and developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, which is a benchmark in America. The term ‘cut’ merely doesn’t denote the shapes like oval, round etc; rather it reflects the cut quality which is a key determinant of the diamond’s price and value.
Idyllically, the different types of diamond cuts are identified by reliable gemological laboratories that possess one of the following certifications:
- HRD: Diamond High Council of Antwerp World Diamond Center.
- IDI: International Gemological Institute.
- GIA: Gemological Institute of America.
Primarily, an ideal cut diamond is judged on the following 3 criteria:
A diamond cut that is too shelved or too deep does not possess the same value as an ideal diamond cut. Such diamonds have very low shine and luster, resulting in a meager value and price.
According to Tolkowsky, the ideal proportions of diamond cuts have the following characteristics:
- They are round shaped with 58 facets,
- Percentage of depth: 59%,
- Percentage of table: 53%,
- Percentage of crown height: 16%
- Percentage of pavilion depth: 43%,
- Belt thickness must be medium and round from all sides,
- Perfectly symmetrical,
- Minute or no culet.
Finding a diamond cut exactly or even near to Tolkowsky’s calculations is a near to impossible undertaking. Continuous studies are being conducted by gemological laboratories that support or oppose Tolkowsky’s developed ideal cut proportions and characteristics. Remember, if your diamond is not round, it lacks the quality of brilliance and fire.
All the surfaces of a diamond must be vigilantly glossed to remove deficiencies. All kinds of blemishes, scratches and defects must be removed to produce an ideal diamond cut.
All the facets of a diamond must be in conformity. The evenness and consistency of a diamond cut determines its idealness and authenticity.